T6 - Waxenstein traverse [T6, scrambling UIAA III, rappelling]

27Oct Sun
06:15

 Munich Hbf - Platform N° 31

Organized by:  Nestor 
Route

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Description

Please read carefully the complete information before clicking "join". otherwise you will be removed. 

This is a long (10-11 hours) and very difficult (T6) & exposed alpine tour, requires scrambling (Schlüsselstellen are two sections UIAA III which must be climbed down unsecured) and has rappel sections, so knoweldge of rappelling, rope handling and ideally alpine climbing/belaying are required.

Approach to the ridge will be medium pace (not so fast, but not so slow). For the scrambling sections, you are required to have a relatively fast and steady pace (except the Schlüsselstellen), for this you need abosult sure-footedness and free of vertigo in the sections UIAA I & II.

Please see a detailed description of this route: https://www.hiking-buddies.com/routes/routes_list/1254/ (Thanks Amit for this route)

Route summary:

0. Hammersbach -> Mandl [up to T4/T5]

1. Mandl -> Kleiner Waxenstein [T6, II]

2. Kleiner Waxenstein -> Mittagsscharte [2x 25 m rappels]

3. Mittagsscharte -> Zwölferkopf [T6]

4. Zwölferkopf -> Großer Waxenstein [T6, III (unsecured up & DOWN climbing!)]

5. Descent: Großer Waxenstein -> Schlafsteig [T6, II]

6. Descent: Schlagfsteig -> Höllentallagerhütte [T4]

7. Höllentallagerhütte -> Hammersbach [T2, optional T4] 

After completing point 2 (rappelling) or maybe point 3, we'll see if we have enough time for Gr Waxenstein. If not we continue to point 6.


what to bring:

  • Alpine helmet (no bike helmet please)
  • Climbing harness
  • rope (> 50 m)
  • rappel device
  • prusik cord (eg. a 30 cm sling, prusik sling, or 1m of a 6mm cord)
  • a 120 cm sling for both: rappel extension and safety lanyard (or your favorite rappel extention and safety lanyard, eg: dual connect adjust, etc)
  • 3 locking HMS carabiners (one for rappel device, one for prusik and one for the safety lanyard)
  • addtional slings and cords (optional)
  • 1 Safelock carabiner (optional)
  • Food and water for the whole day
  • Deutschlandticket
  • Some cash (in case we visit a restaurant/hutt or extra costs needed for transport)
  • GPX viewer with the route information
  • rain/sun protection and layered clothing according to the latest weather forecast: https://www.meteoblue.com/de/wetter/woche/waxenstein_deutschland_2813575
  • Headlamp
  • first aid kit (recommended for emergencies)

Route maybe modified based on the conditions of the day of the event and because of Weather condition Event can be postponed/cancelled.


Estimated Plan: 

Munich Hbf: Platform 31 (RB6) --> Garmisch-Partenkirchen

6:32--------------------->7:55

Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Platform 3 (BZB RB64) --> Hammersbach Zugspitzbahn, Grainau

8:15--------------------->8:27

Hiking & Climbing (including breaks)  (~11 hours)

8:30--------------------->19:30


Possible return options:

Important:

I am not guiding this tour, rather searching for partners of comparable experience as me. We should know each other from previous similar tours. If not, please contact me before joining and tell me your experience with rappeling/rope management and ideally belaying. I reserved the right to remove people if I consider they dont have the suffcient knowledge/experience for this tour. In this way the safety of all the participants is guaranteed, please don´t take it personal in this case :)

As this is a long and difficult tour, the participant number is limited.

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