09^Nov Sat
05:20

Please read carefully the complete information before clicking "join", otherwise you will be removed. 

This is a long (10-12 hours), very difficult & exposed alpine tour (T6), requires unsecured scrambling up to UIAA III and rappelling up to 9 times, for joining this event you need extended experience with rappelling in alpine terrain, proficient rope handling and ideally alpine climbing/belaying. You are also required to have a relatively fast and steady pace for the whole scrambling (UIAA II-III) which means you rock-climb at least UIAA V (we have to be fast, this is long tour as the days are currently shorter).You also need absolute sure-footedness and free of vertigo in exposed/unsecure sections.

As we couldn´t finish Waxen Traverse last time, I wanna try one more time before the winter arrives. This time the descent will be different, instead of hiking down to Höllental, I plan to go down through the Abseilpiste from Mittagsscharte to Mittagskar (6 rappels, ~300m). The .gpx only show an approximate path of this Abseilpiste, we have to find the start of the Abseilpiste and all the next Stände (anchors/rings), as they are strategically placed in “hidden” places (to protect them from falling rocks) it is not so easy to spot them from above. So, this is really “alpine” rappelling and cannot be compared with rappelling in a Klettergarten/Kletterhalle.

Info about the Abseilpiste:

Topo Abseilpiste Mittagsscharte

Steile:welt 1

Steile:welt 2

Sidar.de

Route summary:

Ascent

0. Hammersbach -> Mandl [up to T5, I-II]

1. ⁠Mandl -> Kleiner Waxenstein [T6, II]

2. Kleiner Waxenstein -> Mittagsscharte [2 Rappels: 25 m and 20 m]

3. ⁠ Mittagsscharte -> Zwölferkopf [T6, II]

4. ⁠Zwölferkopf -> Großer Waxenstein [T6, III, one short rappel]

Descent

5. ⁠Großer Waxenstein -> Schafsteig [T6, II]

6. ⁠Schafsteig -> Mittagsscharte [T4?]

7. Mittagsscharte -> Mittagskar [6 rappels (~285 m in total): 55m, 45m, 55m, 55m, 55m, 20m]

8. Mittagskar -> Hammersbach [up toT4]

After completting point N° 5, we will decide if we follow the orignal route/plan (rappelling through Mittagsscharte) or we descent through ⁠Schafsteig towards Riffelscharte and then to Eibsee or an alternative route. This depending on the time (I wouldn't do the rappels after/near the sunset).

what to bring:

• 2x 60 m ropes (per rope team)

To bring Individually:

• alpine helmet
• climbing harness
• rappel device
• gloves
• kurzprusik
• a 120 cm sling for both: rappel extension and safety lanyard (or your favorite rappel extention and safety lanyard, eg: dual connect adjust, etc)
• 4 locking HMS carabiners (one for rappel device, one for prusik, one for the safety lanyard, and one extra)
• additional slings/cords (optional)
• a Safelock carabiner (optional)
• climbing nuts and nutbuster (optional)
• 1-2 quickdraws (optional)

• Food and water for the whole day
• Deutschlandticket
• Some cash (in case we visit a restaurant/hutt or extra costs needed for transport)
• GPX viewer with the route information
• Printed topo of the Abseilpiste
• Rain/sun protection and layered clothing according to the latest weather forecast: https://www.meteoblue.com/de/wetter/woche/waxenstein_deutschland_2813575
• Headlamp (fully charged and/or extra batteries)
• First aid kit (a must for long/difficult alpine tours)
• Biwaksack and/or emergency blanket (a must for long/difficult alpine tours)

Route maybe modified based on the conditions of the day of the event and because of Weather condition Event can be postponed/cancelled.

Estimated Plan: 

Hinfahrt:

Munich Hbf: Platform 27 (RB6) --> Garmisch-Partenkirchen

5:32--------------------->6:55

Garmisch-Partenkirchen: (Bus 9840) --> Hammersbach Bushalt, Grainau

7:23--------------------->7:41

Hiking & Climbing (10-12 hours)

7:45/--------------------->18:30/19:30/20:30…

Possible return options:

Important:

I am not guiding this tour, rather searching for 1 partner (max. 2) of comparable experience. We should know each other from previous similar tours. If not, please contact me before joining and tell me your experience with scrambling UIAA III, alpine rappelling, rope management and ideally alpine climbing. I reserved the right to remove people if I consider they don’t have the sufficient experience for this tour. In this way the safety of all the participants is guaranteed, please don´t take it personal in this case :)

As this is a long and difficult tour and the daylight is very short, the participant number is very limited.