29^Oct Sun
07:45

"Very good and long climbing route through the northern cliffs of Hochstaufen. Due to its high altitude, it's particularly interesting for climbers during the transitional seasons. It's also a great destination for more experienced climbers due to its proximity to Salzburg and its quick accessibility from the German Corner.

The climbing route was built in 2003 under the guidance of Sepp Reichenberger from Piding, involving 1,500 hours of labor. The community of Piding covered the material costs, and the builders contributed their time voluntarily. The upper part of the route follows an old climbing route first explored by Willo Welzenbach and F. Liebler in 1921, although it received little attention since.

Detailed Route Description:

1st Part: Begin with a steep entry wall (C) leading to a flat section, which transitions into another steep section (B). Leave the second steep section at its upper right end (be cautious as it can be slippery). Follow the grassy ridge to the left of the gully (A), overcoming two short steep sections (B) until reaching the end of the safety equipment. Cross the gully to continue the ascent on the right side with the help of ropes (A). The start of the long traverse, which is not secured, is marked by a cairn. Follow the trail until the beginning of the safety equipment at the start of a large scree field. Ascend using the safety equipment (A/B) and reach the start of the second section. The emergency exit to the normal route branches off here – if you had difficulties by this point, it's advisable to choose the emergency exit.

2nd Part: From the protruding pillar (often used as a resting spot – but beware of falling rocks), climb into the first steep pillar (C). After a short flat section, you encounter the second steep wall, leading left into a very steep gully (C+). Reach the top of the pillar via a short, steep wall section (C) and a block ridge (A/B). This ridge leads to the last steep section (C) before the second long traverse. The traverse starts at an edge and descends to a gully (usually A; some sections are B). On the other side of the gully, it ascends gently (A) until reaching a large scree bowl (resting place before the last long steep section). Before this section, you need to tackle a slab zone (B).

3rd Part: The last section is not much more difficult than the second section in individual parts, but it becomes challenging due to decreasing strength. Initially, you ascend moderately to the first steep wall (B and B/C), and it then becomes very steep (C, one section C/D) to a short flat passage, just before this passage, there's a smooth ramp without steps (C). Ascend steeply again (C) to the left of an edge, make a brief rightward traverse (B) into another steep section (C). At its end, go around the edge and over a short slab (B) to the ledge, where you can cross over to the book (secured). The last wall section (C) leads to a ridge (B) that gradually becomes flatter as it approaches the exit (A). On the plateau, you meet the normal route, which leads to the summit in a few minutes.

Maintainer:

Community of Piding

Equipment:

Complete climbing gear, rockfall helmet, and possibly a safety rope.

Note about Safety Equipment:

Except for a few sections, it is almost continuously secured – mostly with safety ropes and iron brackets.

Additional Information on Difficulty:

A challenging, steep, and partly exposed climbing route, reaching the difficulty grade D. Not suitable for beginners, children, or dogs. It is advisable for weaker climbers, especially in the second section, to be in a roped party. Absolute surefootedness (also in scree terrain) and a head for heights are required, and the overall physical demands when ascending from the valley are very high – consider the weather conditions.

Access to the Wall:

Follow the forest road from the hiking parking lot towards Steiner Alm, turn left between Maier Alm and Steiner Alm (sign "Pidinger Klettersteig") to a clearing (bench by a rock, a good place to leave a mountain bike). Continue left here, initially on a forest road, then on trail tracks to the entry point. The trail is well signposted from the hiking parking lot!

Entry Altitude:

1020 meters

Descent:

Follow the normal route (right at the exit) in the northwest direction until reaching the junction (Piding/Urwies). Now descend towards Piding through the forest, and eventually, you'll reach the forest road near Steiner Alpe. Continue down this road; at a junction, take the right road to Urwies and follow it back to your car. If you want to reach your mountain bike, turn off at a curve after Kochalpe towards Piding/Staufenbrücke. Follow this path briefly (crossing a small wooden bridge), and you'll return to the clearing with the bench near the rock.

Remarks:

The climbing route requires biceps and climbing skills, but it primarily demands high endurance. There is no water source (spring) in the climbing area, so be sure to bring enough water.

There is also the option to climb over the rocks."

Source: bergsteigen.com