Ortler (3905m) is the highest mountain of Tirol. In German this mountain is often referred to as "König Ortler" (King Ortler). The massive mountain is capped by a glacier on the northwest flank and has a long north ridge that ends at the village of Gomagoi and separates the valleys of Trafoi and Sulden [wikipedia].

Ascent: Ortler is considered as one of the most important peaks of Eastern alps. All routes to the summit are challenging climbs. The normal route from Payer hut is the easiest one to the summit still rated as AD- (UIAA III+) and has mixed climb including climb on glaciated terrain with steepness up to 40 degree (topo). The route is often very crowded in weekends causing traffic jams, so if you have the possibility try it on week days. The route can be divided into three parts:

To Payerhütte: This can be reached from Sulden or from Trafoi. If you start from Sulden, you have to follow the trail number 4 to Payerhütte. The hike is classified as T2/T3 and very well marked (2.5 to 3 hours). If you start from Trafoi, you have to follow the trail number 19 which merges to trail 4 few minutes before Payerhütte. We started from Sulden.

From Payerhütte to Lombardi Biwak: First few meters from the hut the path goes on rocky steep terrain bypassing Tabarettaspitze. After that the trail goes on the ridge (Tabaretta ridge) and the real climb starts, the climb is mostly UIAA II. You need good orientation skills here, I saw people who went on the wrong direction and got stuck. After the ridge soon you will see a wall (Tschierfeckwandl) with chains. This part might look difficult but it's not but it's quite airy. There are chains to give you support on difficult sections. After that you will see a small wooden cross.

After walking few meters is the crux of the route with grade UIAA III+ climb. At this point there are often traffic jams for both directions. You have to overcome a near vertical rock. There are hooks and rings to belay or abseiling. After this section the path goes a bit down followed by UIAA II climb. There are ropes and hooks in via ferrata style to give support. After this the glacier with big crevasses come into sight. Just before the biwak, there is another UIAA III+ section to overcome, this time you will have to climb on steep ice. There is a rope at the top for abseiling. 

From Lombardi Biwak to Ortler: At this point you have overcome all the technical sections. From now on you only need to traverse on glacier. But don't underestimate this section as some places have 40 degree glacier slope and a lot of crevasses. The steepness starts to decrease as you approach the peak and eventually you will at the top of Tirol. 

Descent: Same as ascent. There are two places requiring III+ climb where rappel is necessary. I have seen many inexperienced people on theses sections causing traffic jams. You can consider this as a warning, so if you are not up for it, simply don't go or take a guide. As any single mistake can be fatal.

Weather: Valley, Summit

Webcams: Passo Stelvio

Interesting facts: 1. The ortler alps were one of the main battlefields between Italy and Austria. Austrian army had quickly occupied the highest peaks and Italian army kept trying to dislodge them for four years [wiki].

2. The first ascent had been a request of Archduke Johann of Austria. The archduke ordered Johannes Nepomuk Gebhard, a "mountain official" and topographer from Salzburg, to climb the mountain with locals. The first five attempts failed and Gebhard was ready to give up, when Pichler responded to the prize money offered for reaching the peak. Pichler and his friends took a difficult, and because of avalanche danger until recently disused, route over the northwest face from Trafoi. Upon their return, the men were not believed on their words alone. Gebhard sent Pichler onto the mountain twice more, first in August 1805 with a flag that could be observed with a telescope from the valley, and again in September 1805 with a huge torch. Only after the torch had been seen burning at night was the accomplishment acknowledged [source wikipedia].