Gran Paradiso | 4061m
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Route Information
Gran Paradiso (4061 m) is the 7th highest mountain in Italy (reference), and the highest mountain completely inside Italy with its base. The peak is part of Grand-Paradis massif, and the only one to exceed 4000m. It’s located in Gran Paradiso National Park, the oldest in Italy and the second oldest in the Alps.
Most climbers do not end up at the 4061 m high main summit, but at a nearby rocky summit which is crowned with Madonna statue [wikipedia]. The last 10m to the main summit is very exposed grade II+ climb, there might be ice and snow.
Ascent: From Pont Valsavarenche parking lot follow marked trail towards Refugio Vittorio Emanuele II. The train is easy (T2), and it takes around 2 hours to the hut. From the hut follow a normal path with cairns. The old normal route is not recommended by hut owners as it’s very icy after the glacier has melted. So most of the people follow a different path slightly on the left over a ridge. The path is not so difficult but there are some short steep scrambling sections (upto grade I+). A special care has to be taken when there is snow/ice. Soon you will arrive at the glacier starting point.
The glacier is not difficult itself but it has hidden crevasses and some sections with steep icy part. After traversing long, you will arrive at the ridge where the path goes to the left to the summit. There is a very big crevasse before the final part of the ascent and there are two ladders (for descent and ascent). Soon you will arrive at the rocky Madonna summit. Proceed towards the summit from the left as the right one is made for descent. The final climb has some hooks to hold and bolts where you can attach rope. Most people (99%) end up here, the main summit is a bit further on the ridge with exposed grade II+ climb.
Warning: In winter the ascent follows a slightly different route.
Descent: Same as ascent.
Note: There is an alternate route from Rifugio Chabod a bit more difficult than this route which can be done as an alternate ascent or descent.
Don't follow the old normal route as the hut owners suggest it has become very icy after the glacier has melted.
| Technical Difficulty | Very Difficult | |||||||||||
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| Gear | Hiking Boots , Hiking Poles , Helmet , Gloves , Ropes | |||||||||||
| Popularity | 6 | |||||||||||
Route statistics
| Highest point | 4061m | |||||||||||
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| Total gain | 2077m | |||||||||||
| Total loss | 2071m | |||||||||||
| Duration | 13h18m | |||||||||||
| Distance | 20.7Km | |||||||||||
| Rating | 2569 | |||||||||||
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