Matterhorn | 4478m
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Route Information
Matterhorn (4478 m) is one of the most famous mountains on earth. It's 9th hardest mountain to climb in the world with more than 500 deaths till now. On average 10 climbers die each year due to underestimating the climb, inexperience. There are 4 ridges to the summit: Hörnligrat, Liongratm Zmuttgrat and Furggengrat. The current route goes up and down on Hörnligrat.
Topo: here
Warning: This is alpinistic route and requires climbing up to grade III in icy condition and exposed sections. If you're not ready for it, consider taking a guide.
Ascent: I will divide the whole hike in 3 parts:
Zermatt to Hörnlihütte (4 hrs): Most climbers take the cable car to Schwarzsee and then follow the marked trail to Hörnlihütte. The hike is easy with some sections are secured with cable. It takes around 1.5 - 2 hours from Schwarzsee to Hörnlihütte. If you start from Zermatt, add 2.5 - 3 hours.
Hörnlihütte to Solvay hut (4 hrs): From Hörnlihütte to Solvay hut it's about 750m climbing. The path finding is very difficult and since you start in the dark, it's event worse. Except the Moseley slab which is grade (III-), most of the climb is grade I and II. If you get lost from the main path, the climb can be more difficult with loose rocks. Solvay hut is located at 4003m and is an emergency shelter. It can accommodate 10 people and there is some food and gas.
Solvay hut to summit (4 hrs): From the hut you almost always climb on the ridge that is very exposed. From shoulder there is often snow all the way to the summit. There are fixed ropes on steep section which lead to pretty close to the summit. But at that altitude, it can get hard to pull the rope so its recommended to secure yourself with rope. There are hooks and steel rods to secure yourself with rope.
Descent: Same as ascent. You need almost the same time for descent as ascent or even more depending number of people per rope.
Gear: Ice axe, crampons, rope, sligs, carabiners, Helmet
Webcam: https://www.zermatt.ch/en/Webcams
Weather: https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Matterhorn/forecasts/4478
| Technical Difficulty | Very Difficult | |||||||||||
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| Gear | Hiking Boots , Hiking Poles , Helmet , Gloves , Ropes | |||||||||||
| Popularity | 3 | |||||||||||
Route statistics
| Highest point | 4478m | |||||||||||
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| Total gain | 3101m | |||||||||||
| Total loss | 3101m | |||||||||||
| Duration | 18h40m | |||||||||||
| Distance | 28.1Km | |||||||||||
| Rating | 3741 | |||||||||||
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