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Difficult tour, T6/II, exposed climbing without rope, steep grass and loose rocks.
Getting there: Werdenfelsbahn from Munich to GaPa. BZB from GaPa to Hammersbach (included in Bayernticket).
From Hammersbach follow the trail through the Zauberwald. On the forest road, don't miss the single trail through the forest on the right side (look for blue/white markings). When you get to the dry river bed first follow the trail on the left side in the direction of ascent. Later cross to the right side (look for cairns) or scramble through the large blocks in the river bed still towards the Mittagsscharte (col between kleiner Waxenstein and Zwölferkopf). When the river bed opens up, continue on the left at the edge of the Latschen (trees) and look for cairns and green steel pegs in the ground. Sometimes very faint red markings are visible. Until the Mandlsattel (col between Manndl and kleiner Waxenstein), the path is sometimes visible and there are some cairns. Do not continue to far up towards Mittagsscharte on the right of the large solid rock pillar.
At Manndlsattel, there are two options to continue. The more interesting one is through the Manndlkamin (chimney, grade II, see picture, come old hooks can be found in the chimney). Climb up through the chimney until you stand on a large block jammed in the chimney where the chimney starts opening up. There, look for a good step on the left of the chimney, summon all your courage and make a large spreaded step across the chimney to the steep flank on the right side of the chimney (look for large and solid hand holds). The flank is partially vegetated and some loose rock makes it crucial to step carefully and check holds. It is possible to find good and solid rock though. Continue to a little ridge (red sling on the left edge). Cross the ridge and step on a very large block on top of the upper chimney. From there a steep gully leads towards the ridge leading to the summit.
The other option is ascend the scree from Manndsattel towards face about 50m of the chimney. A visible path should lead to the beginning of a gully. The route is sometimes marked with pink ribbons tied to the trees. A picture illustrating the path can be found here: https://www.tourentipp.de/de/touren/Kleiner-Waxenstein-Bergtour-Klettern_321.html
Always follow the easiest way with good rock along the ridge until you see the summit. At a little col find a way down towards the left. You should see a window in the rock from the ridge. You need to climb through the window and then climb slightly right up through a gully to the summit.
Instead of going through the rock window, it is possible to climb the exposed wall directly from the ridge starting at an old piton. This route has solid holds.
On the way back, after a good part of the descent towards the Manndlsattel, you need to find the gully to the right (in the direction of descent). It it located close to a memorial plaque. Look for cairns an arrow painted on a rock at the ridge indicating the way down. In the trees there some are pink ribbons tied to the branches. The way down is mostly grade I and II with loose rock, dirt, and sometimes even solid rock.
Alternative route through chimney according to AV-guide: Climb the chminey until it opens up in a carvern-like space. From there climb the short difficult wall section towards the left. Then a very exposed traverse to the right to a gully with loose rock, which leads to the ridge.
Waxensteinhütte (unbewirtschaftete AV-Hütte)
Danger of rock fall, sometimes very exposed. There is a lot of loose rock, also in the steeper sections. Do not go with a large group. Start wearing a helmet when you begin the ascent in the river bed. Only try this hike if you have experience with climbing grade II without any protection. Some sections may be rated II+ and are very exposed.
| Technical Difficulty | Very Difficult | |||||||||||
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| Gear | Helmet | |||||||||||
| Popularity | 5 | |||||||||||
| Highest point | 2136m | |||||||||||
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| Total gain | 1347m | |||||||||||
| Total loss | 1347m | |||||||||||
| Duration | 05h14m | |||||||||||
| Distance | 10.0Km | |||||||||||
| Rating | 1610 | |||||||||||