Olperer - Nordgrat - Überschreitung Riepengrat (3476m) | 3476m

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The route passes by the following peaks:

  • Olperer (3476 m)
  • Riepenkopf (2900 m)

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User provided description:

**Character:**
The North Ridge of the Olperer offers a very beautiful ascent to the third-highest peak of the Zillertal Alps. The climb on the North Ridge is consistently challenging, with the crux being a short steep section (grade 3-). From the summit of the Olperer, you have a perfect view of the well-known Zillertal ice giants.

**Detailed Route Description:**
See topo. The direct ascent starts from the Geraer Hütte, situated in a wild setting (with views of the Fußstein and the Sagwand). First, cross alpine meadows and a glacier moraine to reach the Olperer Glacier. Traverse under an impressive icefall into the Wildlahnerscharte, then ascend the prominent ridge to the summit. North Ridge - see topo.

**First Ascenders:**
Otto and Emil Zsigismondy in 1879 (on descent). According to tradition, the summit greeting "Berg Heil" was first used on the Olperer summit by the North Ridge first ascenders.

**Remarks on Fixed Protection:**
Some iron pegs (duckbills) are installed on the North Ridge and also on the Riepengrat. Although parts of the North Ridge are protected, climbing at the lower third grade is mandatory (without using the iron pegs, the difficulty is likely 4 or 5 UIAA grade).

**Additional Difficulty Information:**
Partly protected with pegs.

**Approach to the Wall:**
From the parking lot at Touristenrast, it takes about 2¾ to 3 hours to reach the Geraer Hütte from the Touristenrast guesthouse (it's best to stay overnight at the hut).

From the Geraer Hütte, it takes about 4 hours to reach the start of the rocks: from the Geraer Hütte, traverse alpine meadows, glacier moraine, and the Olperer Glacier to the Wildlahnerscharte. From there, ascend west of the ridge on the glacier to the entry point on the right side of the North Ridge; climb steep block terrain to the North Ridge. The traverse can also be done from the Geraer Hütte, with the Alpeiner Scharte as a recommended return route to the Geraer Hütte.

**Entry Elevation:**
3254 m

**Descent:**
Same as the ascent.

Skilled mountaineers can also do the traverse with a descent via the Southeast Ridge "Riepengrat B/2" in safe weather conditions, then ascend again to the Wildlahnerscharte via the ski area (an additional 1 to 2 hours).

**Olperer Traverse:**
Usually done from the Olpererhütte. From there, ascend towards the Riepengrat, but then traverse right to the Tuxer Ferner and ascend to the Wildlahnerscharte. Then ascend via the North Ridge (which is somewhat more demanding than the Riepengrat) to the summit and descend again via the Riepengrat to the Olperer Hütte.

**Base:**
Geraer Hütte

**Remarks:**
Climbing length is about 350 meters of altitude gain. From the Wildlahnerscharte, it takes about 1 to 1½ hours to the summit (slightly longer in busy conditions or poor conditions).

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By public transport:
    Train station near start point: St. Jodok am Brenner (14.5 Km from start point)
    Bus stop near start point: Schlegeis Stausee (1092 m from start point)

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Olpererhütte (2389 m):
    Website: Homepage
    Phone: +43 664 4176566
    Wikipedia: Wikipedia page
    Location: Google maps

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Technical Difficulty Very Difficult
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Route statistics

Highest point 3476m
Total gain 962m
Total loss 1566m
Duration 05h49m
Distance 11.3Km
Rating 1553

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Amir

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