Eiger | 3970m
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Route Information
The route passes by the following peaks:
- Grosser Turm (3688 m)
- Eiger (3970 m)
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User provided description:
One of the most famous mountains in Switzerland probably due to it's North face. This route is through the Mittelegigrat. A ridge between grassy and icy landscapes.
Ascent to the hut: The easiest way to reach the hut is to take the cable car to the Eiger glacier and then the train from Eiger glacier to Eismeer. From the train station, take the 4th gate exit into the tunnel which leads to the glacier. Initially you have to rappel down 30m to the glacier. From here easy glacier traverse, watch out for the icefall from Grosse turm. The most difficult section of the whole tour is the entrance to the rock from the glacier. With the first pitch grade IV climbing on a slab. Followed by another grade III pitch. It's possible to skip it by taking a more dangerous but easier variant on the left below the seracs. Once you overcome the initial part on the rocks, the rest is easy scrambling to the hut over ledges and some zigzags. Be careful here as the path finding is tricky.
Hut to the summit: Usually the guides leave the first and team without guides are at the end to not cause traffic jams on the ridge. We were placed in the last group :-) After breakfast, we started at 6:30 from the hut. The ridge is easy to follow and initial parts are mostly grade II - III. There are fixed rope on the way to Grosse Turm. This part is often very icy and most of the accidents happen here. Once you arrive at the Grosse Turm, you have easier scrambling section and soon arrive on the icy and very exposed ridge. Then depending on the conditions, the summit is very close without any difficulties.
Descent: Till Nördlich Eigerjoch, mostly rappel, easy scrambling or walking. From there you have still long and exhausting climb till the Südlich Eigerjoch. Sometimes, it's also exposed and covered with snow. Finally, you arrive at the glacier, where you continue towards Mönchjochhütte and then to Jungfraujoch.
Webcam: Towards Große Turm
Weather: Eiger
| Technical Difficulty | Easy | |||||||||||
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| Popularity | 0 | |||||||||||
Route statistics
| Highest point | 3970m | |||||||||||
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| Total gain | 1167m | |||||||||||
| Total loss | 894m | |||||||||||
| Duration | 04h26m | |||||||||||
| Distance | 7.9Km | |||||||||||
| Rating | 1188 | |||||||||||
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