Waxenstein Traverse - descent through Mittagsscharte by 6x rappelling (UIAA III, 9 rappels in total) | 2276m

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The route passes by the following peaks:
  • Manndl (1889 m)
  • Kleiner Waxenstein (2136 m)
  • Zwölferkopf (2226 m)
  • Großer Waxenstein (2276 m)

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User provided description:

This is a long (10-12 hours), very difficult & exposed alpine tour (T6), requires unsecured scrambling up to UIAA III and rappelling up to 9 times.

Descent: Instead of hiking down to Höllental, there is an alternative way through the Abseilpiste (Rappellin piste? don´t know the word in Englisch) from Mittagsscharte to Mittagskar (6 rappels, ~300m). The .gpx only show an approximate path of this Abseilpiste, You have to find the start of the Abseilpiste and all the next Stände (anchors/rings)as they are strategically placed in “hidden” places (to protect them from falling rocks) it is not so easy to spot them from above. So, this is really “alpine” rappelling and cannot be compared with rappelling in a Klettergarten/Kletterhalle.

Info about the Abseilpiste:

Topo Abseilpiste Mittagsscharte

Steile:welt 1

Steile:welt 2

Sidar.de

 

Route summary:

Ascent

0. Hammersbach -> Mandl [up to T5, I-II]

1Mandl -> Kleiner Waxenstein [T6, II]

2. Kleiner Waxenstein -> Mittagsscharte [2 Rappels: 25 m and 20 m]

3 Mittagsscharte -> Zwölferkopf [T6, II]

4. Zwölferkopf -> Großer Waxenstein [T6, III, one short rappel]

Descent

5Großer Waxenstein -> Schafsteig [T6, II]

6Schafsteig -> Mittagsscharte [T6, I?]

7. Mittagsscharte -> Mittagskar [6 rappels (~285 m in total): 55m, 45m, 55m, 55m, 55m, 20m]

8. Mittagskar -> Hammersbach [up toT5?]

Automatic direction calculation (experimental feature, please provide feedback)


By public transport:
    Train station near start point: Hammersbach (0.0 Km from start point)
    Bus stop near start point: Grainau, Höllentalstraße (688 m from start point)
    Bus stop near start point: Grainau, Schwarzenkopfweg (956 m from start point)

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Technical Difficulty Very Difficult
Gear Helmet , Gloves , Ropes
Popularity 1
Highest point 2276m
Total gain 1573m
Total loss 1571m
Duration 06h09m
Distance 11.2Km
Rating 1743

Nestor

MX