Überschreitung der Leutascher und Patenkirchener Dreitorspitzen (2.682/2.634) T6-UIAA III- | 2682m

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The route passes by the following peaks:

  • Leutascher Dreitorspitze (2682 m)
  • Partenkirchner Dreitorspitze, Westgipfel (2633 m)
  • Partenkirchner Dreitorspitze, Mittelgipfel (2622 m)
  • Partenkirchner Dreitorspitze, Nordostgipfel (2626 m)
  • Bayerländerturm (2507 m)
  • Signalkuppe (2486 m)

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User provided description:

Ambitious mountain tour with a long ridge section and exposed climbing sections (max. II-III) from Leutasch through the Puittal over the Söllerpass to the Leutascher Dreitorspitze, further along the ridge over the three peaks of the Patenkirchener Dreitorspitzen, finally over the Signalkopf down to the Meilerhütte and through the Bergleintal back to the starting point.

One of the great ridge tours in the Wettersteingebirge is the crossing of the Dreitorspitzen.

Starting at the rather rarely visited Leutascher Dreitorspitze (2,682 m), the route follows the ridge to the Patenkirchener Dreitorspitze west summit (2,634 m), middle summit (2,622 m) and northeast summit (2,626 m). Continue past the Bayerländerturm to the Signalkopf (2,486 m) and from there down to the Meilerhütte (2,372 m).

You will be constantly moving along the ridge and will have to climb up and down several turrets, flanks and channels. The difficulty level II-III UIAA is not exceeded, but the terrain is mostly exposed, often brittle and free climbing must be mastered safely.

A high level of sure-footedness, a love of unsecured climbing and a penchant for ridges are, in addition to good physical condition, basic requirements for this tour.

To reach the ridge, you have to conquer about 1,600 meters of altitude from Leutasch, following the beautiful Puitbach through the Puittal to the Puitegg, along the Söllerrinne to the Söllerpass (2,259 m) and mostly without a path over the Leutascher Platt. Finally, up over a scree and through a gully prone to rockfall to the ridge.

For the descent from the Meilerhütte, we chose the Bergleintal, which saves you the ascent to the Söllerpass. 

Directions

From the Puitbach-Ahrn hiking car park (€5/day), which is subject to a fee, behind the Landhaus Ahrn (between the districts of Lehner and Raindlau), follow the road towards Puitbach for a short distance (alternatively, take a small path along the Leutascher Ache, signposted “Chinesische Mauer”, which also joins the road a little later).

After 300 meters, turn left and follow the signs for Söllerpass on a dirt road across meadows into the forest. Keep left here and then right at the next fork. Shortly thereafter, the steep hiking trail 817/818 leads up along the Puitbach stream to Puitegg (1,500 m). The Puitalm awaits us here with its green meadows and idyllic flair, with the Scharnitzjoch at the end and the impressive south face of the Öfelekopf on the right.

A little later, we branch off to the right into the Söllerrinne, which in turn leads steeply up to the Söllerpass (2,259 m) – so we need to pay attention when finding the way.

Once at the top, the view of the vast Leutascher Platt opens up. Essentially, the tour is already easy to follow from here, starting with the Leutascher Dreitorspitze on the left and continuing to the Meilerhütte on the right. (Further to the right, the Wettersteingrat would join, but that's a project in itself...)

From the Söllerpass, turn left and head west, staying at the top for the time being, following tracks and occasional cairns. Then continue along a flank and go around a large basin on the right without losing any altitude to the path that leads from the Meilerhütte to the Leutascher Dreitorspitze. Cairns and the GPS track help with orientation.

Aiming for the prominent gully north of the Leutascher Dreitorspitze, a larger scree field must be crossed to find footholds. The steep gully is very prone to rockfall, as there is a lot of loose scree in the upper area. If other mountaineers are in the gully, a large distance should be kept – it is almost impossible to walk without triggering a rockfall.

Once you have reached the wind gap, you can already see the summit cross of the Leutascher Dreitorspitze on the left. Opposite, the Wettersteingebirge range spreads out with the Teufelsgrat, Schüsselkarspitze, Zugspitze, ...

After 80 meters of altitude, you reach the highest point of the tour, the Leutascher Dreitorspitze (2,682 m).

Back to the saddle and now always following the ridge, it goes mostly over turrets up and down, partly to the right through the flank (usually marked with cairns). Be careful at the first tower, which must be descended from the highest point on the right.

First over the western, then the middle Dreitorspitze (both only with cairns) you finally reach the northeastern Dreitorspitze (summit cross). In the direction of the north, the frequented Schachenhaus is recognizable, through the jagged ridge of the no longer distant Meilerhütte. But even in the last section, high concentration is required.

The northeast Dreitorspitze is climbed on the east side, over a rocky flank you reach the upper Dreitorscharte. This is traversed to the north and through a brittle channel it goes downhill over two clamping blocks. Here, if necessary, a rope can be helpful for lowering / abseiling.

After that, the Bayerländerturm is left on the right and an easy ascent of the Signalkopf is reached. From there, the route continues over scree and easy climbing terrain down to the Meilerhütte.

The route back to the valley and out to the parking lot is technically easy through the Bergleintal.


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By public transport:
    Train station near start point: Gießenbach (4.9 Km from start point)
    Bus stop near start point: Unterleutasch Puitbach (296 m from start point)

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Meilerhütte (2366 m):
    Wikipedia: Wikipedia page
    Location: Google maps

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absolut sure footness 

Technical Difficulty Difficult
Gear Helmet , Ropes
Popularity 2
Highest point 2682m
Total gain 1656m
Total loss 1656m
Duration 08h43m
Distance 17.5Km
Rating 1618

Amir

IR